Farallones: The toughest marathon swim in the world?

Farallones: The toughest marathon swim in the world?


What’s the toughest marathon swim in the world? Some would say the North Channel.

For pure distance, there’s the 72-mile Kaieiewaho Channel between Kauai and Oahu (one relay, zero solo swimmers), the 61 miles from San Nicolas Island (never attempted) to Southern California, and the Straits of Florida (no unassisted swims).

For cold water, there’s the Straits of Magellan and the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

But for sheer overall toughness – distance, water temp, and… intangibles… – I’d choose the Farallon Islands – some 30 miles out to sea from the Golden Gate Bridge (20 miles from Bolinas, 27 miles from Point Bonita).

Before last week, there had been two successful solo crossings, both in 1967. Dolphin Club member Lt. Col. Stewart Evans completed the first on August 28, finishing near Bolinas in 13 hours, 44 minutes. A few weeks later on September 17, my friend and fellow Promontory Point swimmer Ted Erikson swam all the way to the Bridge in 14 hours, 38 minutes.

Last week I was the observer on the third successful Farallon solo swim (the first in 47 years). Craig Lenning finished at Muir Beach in 15 hours, 47 minutes, adding yet another notch on a belt that already includes five of the Oceans Seven channels, a 46-mile Lake Tahoe double-crossing, and an ice mile.

Read my official observer report here.

farallons_aerial


Why is the Farallons swim so tough? Basically, a swimmer planning a Farallon attempt faces a three-way trade-off, with no good options. The three trade-offs are: water temperature, weather, and sharks.

Water Temperature

It’s cold out there. Colder than the Bay. High 40s to low 50s through most of the year. Cold enough that every degree matters for a swim that could last 14 hours even for a fast swimmer. By early fall, the water might start creeping into the high-50s — somewhat more fathomable. But the “warm” water season happens to coincide precisely with… shark season (see below).

Weather

Northern California ocean is a different beast than Southern California ocean. It’s bigger, rougher, colder, more volatile. Whereas in the Catalina Channelmost days are reasonably swimmable, and many days are quite good for swimming, in the Gulf of the Farallones, many days are unswimmable, and exceedingly few could be described as “good for swimming.” Finding a window of good weather is more than just a luxury in planning a NorCal swim — it’s essential.

There are only a few good days for swimming in the Gulf of the Farallones, and they tend to cluster in early spring and fall. In summer, relentless northwesterlies roil the seas into angry froth. Fall is shark season (see below). Which leaves… just a few choice days in early spring.

Here are some typical summer conditions, as seen on the all-women’s Farallon Relay in June 2011 (which included Cathy and my friend Lynn Kubasek). Skip to 6:10 for the good stuff:

So, pretty much unswimmable for a solo swimmer… and it was just barely swimmable for a 6-person relay of very strong open water swimmers.

Basically, according to FISF weather guru Dave Holscher, there are maybe four days each year when a solo swimmer could make a reasonable attempt on the Farallons – assuming the swimmer was otherwise qualified for the distance and water temperature.

Sharks

In fall the Farallons host an unusually dense population of great white sharks, who migrate from Hawaii and the White Shark Cafe to prey on local elephant seals. And these aren’t “juvies” like the ones swimming around off Manhattan Beach. These are big boys & girls, car-sized fish averaging 4-6m long and over 1000kg.

Thanks, but no thanks.


It’s a devil’s trade-off fitting for the “devil’s teeth.”

Assuming you get one of those rare nice-weather days (minimal wind, minimal swell); assuming you get water “warm” enough to swim in sustainably for 14-16-18 hours; assuming you’re able to swim away from the islands without being noticed by an apex predator…. then you still have to contend with the tides of San Francisco Bay.

And here’s where it starts to seem almost unfair. You could swim 27 miles from the islands to Point Bonita – the entrance to the Bay – only to be utterly stopped in your tracks by the ebb tide, 3 miles short of the Bridge.

The effect of the water flowing into and out of the Bay extends into the Gulf for some distance – somewhere between 6 and 10 miles out, depending on the tide. You have to hit the right spot at precisely the right time to catch the incoming tide. If you don’t, you’re S.O.L. and good luck getting to the Bridge against the ebb. Which is basically what happened on Craig’s swim.


Ted Erikson’s achievement remains the longest and toughest version of a Farallons swim, with the iconic imagery of finishing under the most beautiful bridge in the world. But it is, in some ways, an “unfair” swim, with a swimmer’s probability of success depending, to an unsettling extent, on hitting the tides just so. Even Ted is the first to admit he swam on a freak day – a red tide with water temps above 60F. Recalling Point Bonita “whizzing by” on his final feeding, Ted cracked, “Even if I died… my body would still make it!”

Previously, the FISF has recognized only one standard course – to or from the Bridge, with Ted as the only solo success. But a finish on land is a finish on land – and by any standard definition of channel swimming, a success.

Craig’s swim has possibly highlighted the need for a re-thinking of this policy. At the very least, I think there should be two standard courses for a Farallon swim:

One course finishing on land, anywhere on land — the Evans course. This could be Bolinas (20 miles), Muir Beach (25.7 miles), or Point Bonita (27 miles). More of a standard channel swim — still monumentally difficult for many reasons, but less subject to tidal vicissitudes.

And one course finishing under the Bridge — the Erikson course. A gamble with the tides – a roll of the dice. Will you hit the big payoff (the flood), or lose your shirt (to the ebb)?

farallon islands swim
Three Farallon swims, three courses (top to bottom): Bolinas, Muir Beach, Golden Gate Bridge

 

That’s my humble suggestion, anyway.

Who’s up next?

11 Responses to “Farallones: The toughest marathon swim in the world?”

  1. Sharko

    2014-04-17T16:59:20+00:00

    Is Evan or is Evan not throwing his speedo into the Devil’s Teeth and taking the Challenge???

    Reply
    • Evan

      2014-04-17T17:05:39+00:00

      Like I said, Sharko: Thanks but no thanks ;)

      Reply
  2. Paul

    2014-04-17T19:35:12+00:00

    Great write-up Evan. I love the old video!

    Reply
  3. Theo

    2014-04-18T09:12:27+00:00

    No solo for me there.Wish I could have witnessed it.

    Reply
  4. phil cutti

    2014-04-18T16:35:29+00:00

    i agree that this channel may very well end up being the toughest channel to conquer consistently. there obviously is an ongoing discussion regarding many aspects of this swim besides “official” route. i’m of the school of thought that the route is that of the original planned route. it is my understanding that col. evans and ted were “competing” to be the first to complete this channel and the route was islands to ggb. col evans got pushed to stinson/bolinas by the tide, similar to craig. by what may be considered miraculous conditions, ted made the intended route and that has been considered the gold standard for this channel. i believe both col. evans and ted each attempted the swim a couple times before their respective 1967 swims, all with intentions of swimming under the golden gate bridge. i’m curious to hear from craig regarding this route issue. he surely jumped in at fishman cove intending to be the 1st since ’67 to swim under the ggb.

    Reply
    • Evan

      2014-04-25T09:43:32+00:00

      Thanks for the comment, Phil. I agree that a Golden Gate Bridge finish is the “gold standard” for a Farallons swim, as defined by the original swimmers Ted & Stew.

      The problem is, there’s no other channel swim in the world where “success” depends on the specific route taken. A channel swim is always defined as Starting on Land Mass A, and Finishing on Land Mass B. The route taken is typically irrelevant, though it is usually intended to be the shortest straight line.

      FISF is free to define a Farallons swim however they want to, but if their definition contradicts how the rest of the global marathon swimming community conceptualizes a “channel swim,” then they may find themselves in the awkward position of not recognizing swims that everyone else considers legitimate.

      Reply
  5. andy

    2014-04-18T16:47:04+00:00

    Great accomplishment by lovely ladies and skilled crew.

    Reply
  6. John Walker

    2014-04-20T18:02:38+00:00

    fundraiser.

    Reply
  7. Vito Bialla

    2014-05-05T09:39:48+00:00

    Evan
    Great article. I agree with you re the Farallon swims.
    The FSF is mostly to archive the great accomplishments of anyone attempting or finishing any kind of arrival on the Calif coast . That how Phil and I basically started the whole thing. As I see it who we 40 years later to say what is or isn’t to be acknowledged.
    You now have your pick. Finish at the GG bridge call it a Gold medal swim, do a Lenning Muir beach finish call it a silver medal swim or do a Bolinas finish a bronze medal swim. Any one of those will test you to an incredible limit and hats off to those who have attempted and those who are planning . Yes there are about 7 of them male and female , but Phil and I are sworn to secrecy . All of them would rather deliver the goods and brag later (:

    Reply

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